Not every RV will have enough space to build this platform bed, but the ideas incorporated were too great not to share. Everything you see here is from IKEA and your local lumber yard, and was done for under $500! We bet you’re creative and there is lots of inspiration for your own spinoffs or copycat projects in this one.
This build starts with a standard double bed. While other bed sizes could be used, narrower beds would require some creativity to get the steps right, since cabinets also double as a mini stairway. The base cabinets were three wide units along the side and four units of varying heights at the foot to get the stair step effect.
Assemble the cabinets. Since all of these are designed to be wall units, there’s going to be additional mounting hardware that you can discard or save in your hardware box for future projects. These are “European” style cabinets that have no frame. The boxes are made from four slabs and a back. The back in one cabinet was left out so that the area under the bed could be accessed.
Lay the cabinets out on the floor where your bed will be. A corner will work best to support this design, although additional frame support could be built to stand it against one wall. The cabinets are then clamped and screwed together. Fine thread drywall screws 1 ¼ inches long will work well for this. Make sure your screws are slightly shorter than the thickness of two cabinets together to prevent the tips running through. Use at least two screws on each front edge and one at the back. It’s best to predrill your screw holes.
This next step will vary, depending on your RV. In the video, a 1×4 is mounted to the studs at the height of the cabinet tops. A 1×4 is fairly light weight. If adults will be sleeping in your bed, a 2×6 would be ideal. If you can’t mount to the studs, as the video shows, cut 2×6 legs to fit at each end and in the middle, running from the bottom of your edge boards to the floor. If you mount to the studs, use two screws in each stud, 2 ½ inch drywall screws will work well for a 2×6 frame. Use a piece of the extra cabinet back as a filler on the steps as shown. A second board is mounted to the cabinets and foot and head supports are mounted to the cabinet stairs and wall, 3 ½ inches lower than the side boards.
A 2×4 on edge is mounted between the head and foot boards standing on top of the board. Then, slats are cut from 1×4 to run side to side to support the mattress. The math used to calculate the spacing is handy, although perfect spacing is not necessary. The spacer block will save a lot of headaches and help to achieve even spacing. Predrill at each end and the center of every slat. Mount them with 1 ¼ fine thread drywall screws for a sturdy support. Your mattress will rest directly on these, or a box spring could be added for additional comfort.
The tops of the cabinets get covered with paneling on the long edge, although, the white tops could be left bare, or laminate flooring would work well too. Double faced carpet tape is used to mount the paneling in the video, but for a more secure joint, liquid nails for paneling would be ideal. Cut rubber backed rug pieces for the steps to prevent slippage. The rubber backing will help to ensure your rug edges don’t fray too badly. Last but not least, drill for the cabinet pulls and install them and add the shelves inside your cabinets. Adding a plugin lamp under the bed is a great way to make the space easily usable.